Although Schaffhausen has so much to offer, visitors often overlook this charming city with its supurb examples of Renaissance architecture and head directly to the Rhine Falls. What a pity!
It's well-preserved and traffic-free historic old town, the beautiful location on the Rhine, and the Munot fortress with its vineyard looming above the city are visually pleasing. Meandering through the narrow lanes, admiring the architecture, the frescoed houses, and the beautiful squares with its foutnains - Schaffhausen will transport you back in time.
The Rhine has been an important river highway since shipping became possible, and cargo was ferried all the way from the North Sea to Schaffhausen. The origins of Schaffhausen date back to around 1000, and the town became quickly a cargo depot. The river fright to Lake Constance was interrupted here due to the powerful rapids of the Rhine Falls.
The town became a city when Emperor Heinrich the III awarded Count of Nellenburg, founder of the Abbey Schaffhausen, the right to mint coins in 1045. The town's history was dominated by war and the constant alternation of rulers until Schaffhausen became a member of the Swiss Confederation in the 1501.
Trading and the revenue from custom duties made the city and its merchants rich. Today, Schaffhausen is one of the best preserved Swiss cities dating back to the Middle Ages, even though the US Army dropped accidentally 400 bombs on the city on April 1, 1944.
Many of the town houses have richly painted facades. Wealthy merchants competed in adorning their houses with bay windows, then considered a status symbol - and an ideal place from which one could observe the life in the streets in privacy. Over 170 of these oriel windows are still intact and adorn the houses built in the Renaissance period.
During that time, houses were given names rather than numbers, for example "Zum Süssen Winkel" (Sweet Corner), "Zur Oberen Zufriedenheit" (Higher Satisfaction"), "Haus zum grossen Käfig" (House of the Large Cage ), or "Haus zum Paradiesvogel" (Bird of Paradise House).
Like everywhere in Switzerland, you can drink the water from the numerous fountains throughout the city. Each of the larger fountains is dedicated to a different historical figure or an event that happened in the past. Although Schaffhausen cannot compete with the historic fountains in Bern, they are not less exquisite. The richly decorated fountains are all found on squares while smaller and less decorative fountains are pushed back into lanes.
The most intricate fresco, praising the civil virtues, is the one on the "Haus zum Ritter". Originally it was done by Tobias Stimmer, a Swiss Artist born in Schaffhausen in 1539. To preserve his work, the frescoes were taken off the façade and can now be seen in the "Museum zu Allerheiligen" (Klosterstrasse 16). The Artist Carl Roesch of nearby Diessenhofen recreated them masterfully on the "Haus zum Ritter" (House of the Knight - Vordergasse 65).
This is a history rich house and one of the grandest in Schaffhausen. It was one of the earliest inns in town. The largest mural just above the bay window depicts the Golden Ox, the symbol of the house. Between the windows are figures from Babylon and ancient Greece. The entrance to the left and the oriel window are richly decorated with sculptures.
The main shopping lanes end at this intimate square in the middle of the old town, and it is a favorite meeting place for locals. Fronwag square is a popular venue for events too, such as the speech for National Day on August 1st - or like here, Advent celebrations with a large Christmas tree.
Here are two of Schaffhausen's most beautiful fountains; at one end the Landsknechtbrunnen, the Mercenary fountain with four big spouts, and at the other end the Mohrenbrunnen - dedicated to the youngest of the three Magi. However, locals affectionately call this fountain "Joggel", referring to one of the wealthiest city merchants.
The Fronwag tower (behind the carousel) features an astronomical clock by Joachim Habrecht, dated 1564. On top of the tower you can see the small bell of the "Burg Balm", a reconstruction of the original bell which was destroyed during a dispute between the inhabitants of Schaffhausen and the Austrians in 1449.
Undoubtedly, the 16th century Munot Fortress catches the visitors' eye. The city's landmark with its characteristic round shape was mostly built by Schaffhausen citizens in feudal labour. It took them 25 years. The Munot fortress lost its military importance at the beginning of the 19th century and fell in despair, in fact, it became a querry. Thankfully, Jakob Beck, an art teacher, founded the Munot Association which was responsible for the restoration. The Association also takes care of the vineyard and the deer in the moat around the tower.
Nowadays, the Munot serves as urban venue and cultural center. The Association organizes also summer Saturday night dances with live music.
Boss of the Munot since 1377 is the watchman. He ensured the communication and was responsible for the reporting station until 1926. Nowadays, the Munot Watchmen cares for its upkeep and attends to the tourists. And each night at exactly nine o'clock he's ringing the Munot bell which bears the date 1589. For the first time, the position of the Munotwachtman will be held by a woman, starting in May 2017.
Every 5 years the Munot opens its door over a weekend, including the historic Armoury and the Roman tower.
The Munot rose garden is bordered off from the pathways by low-growing box hedges. Approx. 170 species grow here, and the pergola makes a fitting completion to the scene.
The Benedictine Abbey complex with its impressive basilica and "Museum zu Allerheiligen" is a lively centre of art, cultural and natural history, archeology including a permanent exhibition of early advanced civilizations.
The cloister - partly Romanesque and partly Gothic - the romantic cemetery where high ranking magistrates have been buried between 1582 and 1874, the idyllic Herb Garden and the atrium with the Schiller Bell invite you to linger.
Schaffhausen is Switzerland's northern most city and lies at the River Rhine on the border to Germany.
Getting there by train
Getting there by car:
These are just a few of the largest events. For all dates check out the Schaffhausen Tourism Website.
There are lovely street cafés throughout the city where you can get a bite to eat. A myriad of restaurants cater to all tastes and preferences. I only recommend what I have tried myself, so here is a list with my favorite ones:
Directly across the train station and on a busy street. Amenities as expected in a 4* hotel: free wifi, laundry service, hair salon, fitness room and above all, quite reasonably priced. Friendly staff.
Just steps away from the train station and the old town. Spacious rooms with a special touch in a historic building. Amazing breakfast included.
Simple, clean rooms. Good value. 10 minutes' walk (a bit uphill) from the train station on the opposite side of the old town. 200 m to the nearest bus station. Free wifi. Breakfast buffet, lovely lush green garden, friendly staff.
A short walk from the train station. Single and double rooms, shared dormitory as well as studios. Free wifi. Coffee shop.
Approx. 1km from the train station on the oposite side of the old town. Bus every 20 minutes. Clean simple shared dormitories, and twin rooms with shared bathrooms. Villa in a nice parklike setting. Buffet style breakfast.
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